Read previewThis as-told-to essay is based on an interview with the founder and chef of Chishuru, Joké Bakare, about pursuing her dream to open a restaurant. A year later, some friends spotted a competition run by Brixton Village in south London — they were offering the winner a three-month pop-up restaurant. In some ways, the Brixton restaurant was straightforward — it was a small site with just 18 covers inside and 14 outside. Harriet LangfordThe restaurant's success continued and in April 2022, Time Out named Chishuru as London's best restaurant. It's the food that my grandmother might have cooked, but with a London restaurant spin.

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Persons: —, Joké, Covid, Jay Rayner, Matt Paice, Bakare, Harriet Langford, they'd, I've, We've, Cook, Chishuru Harriet Langford, It's Organizations: Service, Ahmadu Bello University, Business, Brixton, The Observer, Michelin, uda Locations: Kaduna, Nigeria, London —, Brixton, London, Matt, Chishuru